
Well, we were skeptical and expectations were very low, but we could not have ended up with a better holiday.
Saturday we arrived in Banjarmasin, a small town in the south of Kalimantan known for its canal/river life. Things were a bit quiet because of Ramadan (getting lunch was a challenge) but we were able to see the major sights. Saturday afternoon we just wandered the city, but Sunday morning headed out to Cempaka, a town about 30 minutes outside Banjarmasin known for their diamond mines.

In the blazing sun, groups of 10 men mine for diamonds and gold. They find about one good diamond a month and the proceeds are split between them. It is hard to explain how hot it is and how hopeless this job seemed to us. There were just piles and piles of rocks and guys sitting in pits of water sifting through them. It seems like even finding one a month is a stretch. Shockingly only one guy tried to sell us some clearly fake gems and when we turned him down he was still incredibly friendly and seemed not to mind at all.

The next morning bright and early (5 AM) we headed out to the famous floating markets, which were incredible. For those of you who have been to Thailand, this is the same idea, but MUCH less touristy. This is a real traditional market that just happens to be in boats on a river. There were 2 markets, the first being a close one that was predominantly food stuffs. What makes this one cool are the floating cafes which you pull up next to and get coffee and tea and breakfast treats. They give you a long bamboo stick with a nail at the end to stab the snack of your choice, which was lots of fun and made it possible for me to ignore that my coffee cup was rinsed in the not so clean river water.

The second market was a bit cooler in that it was really a traditional market with everything from fruit to furniture and it was really bustling. We bought a strange new fruit -
jeruk mentega which means butter fruit and looks like some kind of giant fuzzy tomato - and chatted it up with the locals. If you get the chance to have the jeruk mentega, you might not want to bother. It turned out to be kind of gross and the fuzzies gave me a little rash, but it is always fun to try new fruit.

That afternoon our friend Chad joined us and we all did a canal tour together to catch a glimpse of local life. The canals are less than clean, but as you ride along the river is filled with people bathing, kids swimming, women doing laundry and cleaning veggies or rice for dinner. The people were great, waving and yelling hello, kids jumping into our boat or hanging on; it was a great look at real life. The tour culminated at the Pasar Wadai (Cake Market) that is special to Ramadan. Stalls were set up all along the main river-way selling cakes and foodstuffs for breaking the fast. It is a great sight and there are all kinds of delish snacks that you can only get this time of year. Despite our day of eating, we of course indulged in some snacks ourselves and had a nice riverside picnic. Mostly it is just fun to watch people stuff their face as soon as they hear that call to prayer... ironically the anticipation is palpable.

Since things were pretty shut down and Kalimantan is known for its jungle, we decided that we could not be there and not do a jungle trek, so we hooked up with Tailah - the most recommended guide by Lonely Planet - and signed up for a 2 night 3 day jungle trek. Tailah was a great ambassador in the jungle and the trek really turned out to be the highlight of our journey, despite all 4 of us (Chad's wife Trish joined us on Tuesday) being completely unprepared without any rain gear or warm clothing.
Chad stayed in Banjarmasin Tuesday to wait for Trish and Howie and I headed to Kendangan, about one hour from Loksado, where the trek was to start. It is supposed to have a cool traditional market and Lonely Planet said it was a good place to stop on the way. Lonely Planet was pretty wrong overall about Kendangan - the hotel was gross, the market was nothing too special as markets go and there was nothing to do. But the stop was salvaged by this incredible
pesta, party, where what seemed like all of Kendangan gathered in the city center, set off fireworks and just generally had a great time. It was quite a scene, with trees lighting fire left and right and the streets packed densely with people on motorbikes. It sounded like Baghdad from our hotel room, but we had fun.

Once in the jungle, the trek went from village to village, 3 hours the first day, 7 hours the second and 3 hours on a bamboo raft back to Loksado the third. The hiking was a bit challenging, with a few steep bits, but not too horrible. All along the way there are small villages where we were greeted with what seemed like everyone. Such beautiful faces, adorable kids and interesting stories.

Most of the villages are Dayak and they live in small communities harvesting the rubber and cinnamon throughout the jungle. Traditionally each village has a
balai, longhouse, where anywhere from 10-20 families live together in a community style. The
balai tradition is on the way out as small houses are being built in these communities (and after sleeping in one we know why... it is NOT quiet with animals underneath, children crying and zero privacy) but each village has a
kepala balai, who acts as a village head. This is a lifetime appointment and these guys have seen it all. We ate dinner and slept in the
balai and armed with
kretek, clove cigarettes, and candy for the kids, we heard wonderful stories and really got to know people. We even brought some sparklers for the kids, which although in this giant house made of wood made us very nervous, everyone seemed to enjoy immensely.

It is hard to explain the stunning people and sights we saw. Tailah has been doing this for 30 years and knew everyone in every village. There was a lot of respect for him and clearly a trust that was passed on to us as his guests. And by the way, if you are looking for an ego boost, this is the trip for you. I have never been told I was beautiful so many times... and without a shower or a change of clothing for 3 days I am the first person to tell you I was not feeling too pretty.

The bamboo rafting back had some awe inspiring views and a few hair raising moments where I was sure our raft was going to flip and land the few things I had with me in the river. But, despite some rapids, a small dam made of rocks that our captains took down and some heavy rain, it was incredible and fun and a great way to end the journey.

This trip was a great reminder for us as to why we came out to Indonesia to begin with. The people were wonderful, the sights were gorgeous and it was just one great experience after another. The only thing it was missing, as far as I am concerned, was a monkey or two, but I am just getting greedy.