Friday, December 29, 2006
Back to the Stone Ages
We're heading to the beach for a few days of R&R over the long weekend. We hope everyone has a safe and fun New Years and we'll check in with you soon.
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
A Merry Christmas in Jakarta (but probably not for the animals)
Our first destination was the exotic animal market. We knew it was going to be a grim place, but we had to see it for ourselves. The majority of the vendors were selling exotic birds, which wasn't all that traumatic - pretty birds in nice cages. The big cages stuffed with rabbits weren't so bad either. We steered clear
Our next stop was the flea market. It was mostly wood carvings and other handicrafts from all over the country. We didn't buy anything, although we were very tempted by the hand-carved sculpture of a monkey talking on the telephone.
Sunday, December 24, 2006
Howie leaves Jakarta
Merry Christmas! Here in Indonesia Christmas is more of a Western concept than a religious one and although you really could not tell tonight from any other night, there was something festive in the air. We returned from Bogor this evening and went to dinner at the seafood place down the street. It was packed and you could just tell people were celebrating, many of which were obviously not Christian.
We put some more photos of Bogor online at http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva
Thursday, December 21, 2006
An Ode to the Martabak
We've discovered that one of the best martabak (or murtabak) restaurants in Jakarta happens to be in our neighborhood, Martabak Kubang. For those of you not familiar with martabak, it is a type of pie that comes in two delicious varieties: savory and sweet. Martabak Kubang specializes in the savory variety but there are a few street vendors that sell the sweet kind on our street.
The savory variety is made by folding a very thin dough around any number of meat, tofu and veg fillings, then frying it on a griddle. It comes with either a curry for dipping or a fantastic sweet soy based sauce.
Wednesday, December 20, 2006
Tuesday, December 19, 2006
Haviva's Day Out
After a walk down the main docking area we headed into the local village, winding through the nooks and crannies filled with local food stalls and vendors selling everything from underwear to prayer mats. With every step we got the typical "Hello Mister!" (for the record, someone taught the nation of Indonesia "hello mister" and forgot to mention that it only applies to men. not a "hello miss" to be heard) and the occasional "How are you? I am fine!" We made a quick stop for a fried delish snack - I have become addicted to these little fried bites of cabbage...sort of like deep fried sourkraut, which may sound gross, but it really is good.
The strange part about this area of Jakarta is that it still has the Dutch colonial architecture. For some reason, to me it felt more like South American than SE Asia. You can tell at one time the area was beautiful, but now it looks a bit forgotten. We hung out in the square and had a TeBotol (iced tea in a glass bottle that can be found anywhere) hoping to reduce the sweat level, but as is life in Indonesia, that just did not happen. Maybe that is why the Dutch eventually left....
Sunday, December 17, 2006
More Frisbee
Saturday afternoon I went out to a couple of private girls schools in far East Jakarta with a few other Westerners from the Ultimate Frisbee club to teach Frisbee and do some general mingling. (In truth, one of them was co-ed, having 457 girls and 4 boys enrolled.) We had a lot of fun and I think the girls were sufficiently entertained. The schools were quite nice and the students and staffs quite friendly.
You might notice from the photos that the majority of the girls at one of the schools were wearing head scarves (called a jilbab here) and very few were at the other school. Surprisingly (to me, at least) wearing a jilbab seems to have little or no bearing on a girl's general behavior. The girls in the jilbabs were just as outgoing and just as likely to strike up a conversation with the western men as the girls without them.
If you are interested in the photos they are at http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva
Saturday, December 16, 2006
Happy one month in Jakarta to us!
It has been a wonderful, exciting, exhausting and interesting month to say the least. Certainly the adventure we signed up for. I can only imagine what the next 11 have to offer.
In addition, Happy Hanukkah to all you out there to whom it might apply. Not much going on here for the holiday officially, but we feel we celebrate the miracle of oil each and every day with Indonesian cuisine. Never a shortage of fried goodies. As a treat for ourselves, we bought two show passes to the Jakarta International Film Festival and we are headed to see an Australian movie tonight and then a Chilean movie (I think Chilean, could be wrong) tomorrow night. Not the traditional gift giving, but much more our style and budget. Hopefully next weekend we can hit the beach and have a little vacation since I have Monday off.
Hope you all have a great holiday. Have a latke (or two or three) for us!
Comments Were Always Welcome...
Sorry the blog settings made it a pain to comment before, but I think we've corrected the problem, so comment away...
Friday, December 15, 2006
Watching Leonard Cohen in Jakarta
Well, it may not be quite the same as reading Lolita in Tehran (or even reading Playboy in Indonesia, which is quite a hot topic here at the moment) but it was quite strange watching a documentary about Leonard Cohen in a theater filled (for a few minutes, at least) with Indonesians at the Jakarta Intl Film Festival last night.
Tickets were free (as they are for all documentaries at the festival) and, because you needed to get there a couple of hours before the 6:30 showtime to get them, the crowd was made up of mostly students who have come every day after school during the festival and seen whatever film they could get into. Therefore, of all the attendees I talked to while waiting in line, only one actually knew who Leonard Cohen was.
All in all we quite enjoyed the film, which was a combination of footage from a tribute concert and interviews with Cohen and other artists. Pretty typical concert film, really, but the topic and the venue made it feel a bit different.
Oh yeah, and when the credits came on we discovered that the film was co-produced by none other than Mel Gibson.
Wednesday, December 13, 2006
Our New Favorite Restaurant
Haviva's back in town so that means we get to try the new restaurants I find while wandering around our neighborhood. Last night we went to the BBQ seafood place just down the street, past the rib place. Haviva did a fine job of ordering us one of the local specialties she had tried in Jayapura, a fish cut in half the long way, grilled and covered with all sorts of chillies, ginger and lemon grass. Fantastic stuff.
Tonight it is off to the Jakarta International Film Festival. Don't laugh, it's actually got quite an impressive lineup. We're hoping to see Leonard Cohen: I'm Your Man tonight, which we've heard good things about. Haviva's off again in the morning, but hopefully we'll get to see something else when she gets back.
Tuesday, December 12, 2006
Global Conference 2006
Monday, December 11, 2006
Phones, phone numbers, etc.
The country code for Indonesia is 62 so from the US you'd dial 011 62... Our numbers are:
home - 21 3004 0584
Haviva's mobile/cell/hand phone - 0856 9183 0784
Howie's mobile/cell/hand phone - 0856 9722 7686
You'll notice that our mobile numbers are not at all easy to remember and don't have many repeating digits. That's because we're cheap. You pick your phone number from a giant list of numbers which are sorted by price. Indonesians tend to be quite superstitious, so having a good phone number is quite desirable. We paid about two dollars for the SIM card that gives you your phone number. Some of the 'better' numbers were going for upwards of 10 dollars.
Sunday, December 10, 2006
What do I do when Haviva's not here? Good Question.
Today we followed the two hour game up with an hour or so at a local school playing with the kids. Some of the people I play with have started going around to a bunch of the schools as a way for the kids to meet Westerners in a way other than yelling "Hello Mister" to us from across the street. It's a lot of fun. Unfortunately Haviva has the camera with her, so I don't have any pictures, but you can see some at the Klub Frisbee blog.
In between playing frisbee I've done some good wandering around the city. No photo evidence to prove it, but I made it up to the North of the city where the harbor is. Quite interesting. I'll take Haviva there when she gets back and we'll take some pictures.
Anyway, Haviva's back in town Monday for a couple of days - then she's off again. I'm making a little progress on the job front. If nothing else I should be able to pick up some English classes as I'm meeting with a school director this week.
Next post should be Haviva telling us about her weekend at a beach resort with EF staff from all over the world...
Wednesday, December 06, 2006
Photos Are Online
The Rainy Season Cometh
| As you can see from the video it doesn't just rain, it pours. It's been a daily occurrence for the past few days and we're told it is the beginning of the rainy season that won't end until March. The rain isn't all that bad. It thunders and lightnings for a while, then pours for 30 minutes. But the traffic jams it creates are brutal. It was hard to believe the traffic could get worse but first, when it starts raining, the motor bikers all take cover under the overpasses, completely blocking them, then the streets flood bringing everything to a standstill. | |
Monday, December 04, 2006
Jayapura
Saturday, December 02, 2006
View out our window at prayer time.
| This is the view out of our 32nd floor (sort of - there's no floor #3,4,13,14,23 or 24 because they're unlucky) apartment overlooking the Central Business District of Jakarta. The video starts out facing northwest and ends looking southwest. You can hear the call to prayer from the mosque directly below our building and also from a number of other mosques, but the noise level doesn't bother us at night when we have the windows closed and the AC on. | |
Friday, December 01, 2006
Getting Settled

Sorry for our absence. We're in our new apartment but have been without internet until now. We're starting to settle in here on the 32nd floor of the Casablanca Mansions after numerous trips to Carrefour (the closest thing to Target to be found in Jakarta). Our internet connection (which bizarrely comes in through the electrical outlet) is okay at times and unbelievably slow at others, but when it is okay we'll post some pictures and maybe a video tour.
Nothing terribly interesting to report from the past week. We explored our neighborhood and found a fantastic restaurant just up the road. It is the first restaurant that at all resembles what we expected to find more of - it's not in a mall, but is also not on the street selling food that looks days old. It is a simple, open-air place that seems quite popular. One of the things that makes Indonesia very easy for non Indonesian speakers is their habit of putting pictures on menus, so it was easy to figure out that this place specializes in big beef ribs and skewers of beef, which were cooked in a spicy peanut sauce and fantastic.
We also explored another of our local malls, Pasar Festival. Nothing special, except that it has a bowling alley and an Indian Restaurant. At this point I feel obligated to report that not only did Haviva beat me in our second game of bowling the other day, but she did it in style. Going to the 10th and final frame we were tied but Haviva then threw 3 straight strikes (yes, a turkey to you bowling aficionados) to beat me good.
No big plans for this weekend. I'm alone in the big city as Haviva is on the road visiting a school in Jayapura, which is a 10 hour (and 2 stop) flight away near the Papua New Guinea border. Just got a text message from her reporting that all is well in the jungle. I've still got plenty of stuff on the list of things we need for the apartment, so that'll keep me busy (toaster oven tops the list because we don't have a regular oven and some sort of foam pad for our incredibly hard mattress follows closely).
Orchid_Garden.MPG
| Here's our first attempt at a video blog. Just a little clip from our very sad visit to the Slipi Orchid Garden last weekend. | |
Saturday, November 25, 2006
As it was a long day at work and we did not want cranky Haviva to surface, we started with dinner and then hit the Ambassador to pick up some DVDs. Our new apartment does have cable, but it also has a great surround sound system, so we thought it would be good to pick up some 60 cent dvds and curl up on the couch with a movie. Yes, you heard me right, 60 cents. Tables of DVD sellers line the mall and since the food court was on the top floor, we started there. But, alas, they wanted 70 cents at that table since their DVDs came in fancy boxes, so we headed back to the first floor where they were only 60 cents. You would not believe the amount of movies they have. Even things that have not come out yet in the theater, or just came out yesterday - The Departed, Borat, even that small independant movie about Jews and Passover that did not make a big splash in the US. Howie and I sifted through and decided to take advantage of the "Buy 10 get one free." We had chosen about 10 and the woman was playing them all in the DVD player for us to prove they worked (she was even so nice as to tell us what not to even bother buying because of thei poor quality...) About half way thru the process, she walks away and clearly is not helping us anymore. We look around....suddenly, no one is buying DVDs. The women behind the counter grab their bags and start to run. Still confused Howie and I stand there, holding about 8 DVDs that we have not paid for, but we know work. It was a raid. Undercover policemen starts dumping all the DVDs into big garbage bags and shooing people away. Deciding that Indonesian jail is not where we want to spend the night, we put the DVDs back and run upstairs, hoping the raid started on the first floor and they have not gotten to the upstairs tables yet. No such luck. The hundreds of DVDs we had seen only minutes before were all gone. People were just standing around, looking confused and, like us, wishing they had just taken what was in their hand and walked away....
All that excitement warrented a rootbeer float from A&W and we continued on to Carrefour to stock up for the apartment. We are still missing a few key items, but we are slowly making it home. We will post pictures soon.


Happy Thanksgiving! We spent ours at the American Club, a very nice social club in the compound where most US embassy staff live. They had a full spread complete with a big turkey, cornbread stuffing, cranberry sauce and pecan pie. Not quite homemade, but it did the trick. I don't think we've been gone long enough to really crave western food, but it was nice regardless. Afterwards we went back to the hotel and joined Haviva's family's Thanksgiving via webcam.
Thursday, November 23, 2006
In a sudden wave of sentimentality, we decided we really wanted to celebrate Thanksgiving in Jakarta. Originally, we had hoped to have been moved into our apartment and we planned to cook on our own, but as that is not the case, we started our search for an American evening. Stumbling upon the "American Club" we asked about a Thanksgiving dinner, but we were sadly too late. It was all booked and there was no pity for the new people with no place to go. I left my cell phone in hopes for a cancellation. Feeling let down, we considered seeing a movie or going bowling as an alternative - doesn't get any more American than that, does it? - but in a wave of good luck, the American Club had an opening last minute and we are headed there this evening for a real American feast. Turkey, stuffing and cranberry sauce and maybe we will even meet some other American's hanging out in this crazy city (probably pretending they are Canadian.) It will not be the same as home, but at least it should be an adventure.
We hope you all have a great holiday. Thinking of you!
Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Rent in Indonesia is paid upfront for the year. Insane, right? Haviva's office is going to pay our rent for the year and then we'll pay them back monthly.
The biggest issue we have with the lease is the clause that says that if the apartment is damaged and we need to move out while repairs are being made then the lease is automatically extended rent-free for the period of time we are unable to live there. So, if we move in and there's an earthquake the next day and they have to rebuild the place then they'll keep our money and let us live there for a year after it is rebuilt. No thanks.
One thing that we've found interesting is that Indonesians have no problem protesting against Bush, but are surprised that we don't like him either. They may have voted against their president in the last election here, but they won't tell you that and think it is strange that we're willing to say we didn't vote for Bush and don't support him.
Look kids... Big Ben...Parliament...
One of the things we heard most about Jakarta before coming was that it had the world's worst traffic. Hard to argue with that statement, really, but the craziest part might be the traffic pattern. They don't believe in the American-style "cloverleaf", where you can get off one divided road and onto the next in either direction. Here you can only get off in one direction, so you are constantly making u-turns and going in giant circles to get to the other side of the road. It's a bit disheartening when you get in a taxi and 20 minutes and a couple of miles later you are across the street from where you started.
Monday, November 20, 2006



Still can't say hello....
...but we can say "thank you" - Tri (pronounced tree with a rolled R) Makasi. For some reason Indonesian has been going in one ear and out the other, but we are hoping this one will stick.
We are still living in the hotel, but an apartment should be around the corner. We have almost settled on a very nice place, but when the contract came thru, Arleta, my Indonesian boss, told us we were getting ripped off. She has called a friend of hers who is a realtor, who thinks he can get us something cheaper...we are wondering where he was the past couple days as we dragged around in the heat looking at a billion apartments. But ,we are happy he has at least surfaced now. It seems to be par for the course here. Unlike in China where you had to beg not to helped going to the bathroom, here help needs to be asked for. Everyone has a friend who has a discount on this or that, but good luck finding that out unless you mention what you happen to need at that moment. Indonesians are a little less infatuated with the westerner and do not feel any need to coddle. We are a bit undecided about which lifestyle was better, but we are sure that we could use a little help. They think it is a riot thar we have not been able to buy cell phones yet, but god help us if we ever understand the sim card...do you know what a sim card is?
You cannot imagine the heat here. Secret claims to be ph balanced for a woman, but there should be a little note with that mentioning that woman does not live in a tropical climate with 12 million people.
For all you foodies out there, tonight was our first local meal. (that is the picture above) To give you some background, until now we have stuck to the local faves - mei goereng and nasi goereng, which is basically lo mein and fried rice. This is NOT because we are too chicken to eat something new, but these really are the local dishes. All Indonesian places seem to only have about 8 things on the menu and they are all slight variations on this same theme. Indonesians love their malls and, as we mentioned, it is HOT here so eating at the food court is where most people go. You still get local food, you just do not sweat as mch when you eat it. So, tonight was a grand seafood dinner. Everything is spicy and everything is delish. If you like sambal, this is the place for you and Howie ordered a young coconut with his meal that was not only refershing, but supposedly good for the stomach. Indonesians eat fast. Eating is for eating, not for socializing (socializing is for the hour cab ride it takes to get anywhere.) All in all, a great first experience and we are hoping someone will take us out again so we can eat more things outside a mall.
Goodnight for now.
Haviva and Howie
Saturday, November 18, 2006
We would say hello in Bahasa, but we do not know how to do that yet. The good news is that we are here safe and sound and sorry that we have not been in touch as we would have liked so far. Internet is spotty here in Indonesia and if it exists it seems to be slow. The plan was to "pop" into the office and get some emails out before we go apartment hunting today, but here everything takes longer than you expect so we will have to keep this short.
The trip was long....We somehow got delayed from Newark and that just set the long hours into motion. Missed our connection in Taipei (after what ended up being a 13 hour flight from Seattle) and had to connect to Bali and then Jakarta. An extra stop and a cruel joke to make the girl headed to work sit on a plane with honeymooners and vacationers, but our luggage made it somehow and our ride was even there to pick us up. I was quickly wisked back to the airport the next morning and left Howie to explore.
Work is actually good and I think I will enjoy this job, although it will not be an easy one. Howie found his way around Jakarta - a lot of shopping malls and traffic - and today we apartment hunt together. This place is crazy with really everything Western you can imagine. Hot and humid, but very exciting.
We promise more soon!!!
Haviva and Howie
Wednesday, November 08, 2006
Yup, this is it. The visa is almost complete, we actually have a flight, and althought the bags are not packed, we really are going this time. Leaving from Newark on the 13th at 11:15 PM and arriving on the 15th at 1:15 PM. Short flight. I emailed my office with the information about our arrival and they sent me my agena for the next couple weeks. Looks like I will get to rest the day we arrive, but the 16th I am flying to Medan (on the island of Sumatra) for an "emergency visit" to the Medan school. Your guess is as good as mine, although I have yet to see an emergency visit that is good news. I just hope they do not expect me to talk too much. Clearly these people have not met sleep deprived Haviva. Howie will be tasked with the job of finding us a place to live, although they were gracious enough to give me next Saturday off to check out some places....and catch up on some sleep.
For all of those who recommended we see Borat we go, it is on the agenda for Wednesday night. Sharon is firing up the grill and there are just a couple more goodbye for nows to go.
Freaking out a little. (okay, maybe a lot.) Excited, nervous, wondering what the heck we have gotten ourselves into and hoping I will be dressed right for my first business trip.
Next entry from somewhere that is not Hamden!
Tuesday, October 17, 2006
Move number one is complete. Still no date of departure to Jakarta, but we have made our first pit stop on the way here in Brookline, MA. Might as well be Jakarta, since we are living in some Egyptian couple's apartment, there is a Koran on the shelf and Howie keeps getting lost on his way to the store.
