Saturday, March 28, 2009

Birds and Elephants in Kuala Lumpur

Our first stop in Malaysia was KL, where our friends Barb and Scott have a great place, not even a 10 minute walk from the Petronas Towers. We were both expecting KL to be a lot like Jakarta, but have found more similarities to Singapore. We spent a whole day wandering the city by foot, something you simply cannot do in Jakarta, the city is pretty clean and there are sidewalks. Already an improvement. While there is not that much to do/see per say and despite the intense humidity and daily rain, you can see the appeal of living here.Day two we decided to check out the bird park, the largest walk in aviary in the world, and it is pretty incredible. (And this is coming from a girl who got pooped on by a lorikeet.) When you walk in immediately there is a dish of feed and some colorful birds flying around who land on your arms and eat from your hands. We discovered they are also fond of sweat as one latched on to Howie's back and and was nibbling at the back of his neck for quite some time. He had to be forcibly removed before we went into the next section of the park. From there we encountered the second coolest thing in the park, which was a peacock who decided to show off his stuff and hopefully attract a female that was wandering by. He did not seem bothered by all the people watching, spread his gorgeous feathers and did a little dance, shaking his tail feathers and really putting on a show. Sadly, with all the people jumping in and taking photos, he did not seem to have much luck, but since there were many small children around, maybe that was for the best.After that awesome display we walked through the rest of the park seeing emus, ostriches, eagles, hornbills, lorikeets, parrots, flamingos... you name it. Saturday, since Barb and Scott were not working, we headed about 90K out of the city to the elephant sanctuary where, if you are one of the first 100 people you can go for an elephant ride and bathe with the elephants. Luckily, it is an afternoon thing, so being in the first 100 was not too difficult. It was an incredible day and despite how crazy it could have been with the number of people that were there, it was really well organized and we got a lot of time with the elephants.After an interesting movie about the relocation of elephants in Malaysia - the palm plantations have encroached on the elephants natural habitat and they move them from what is left of their small forests to the national nature preserve - we went and fed the elephants some fruit and peanuts. Then there was a short, but fun, elephant ride and then into the water on an elephant's back. He dumped us intot he watre and we bathed and played with three younger elephants. The elephants were amazing and wonderful and it was a great experience.Monday we will leave the comfort of Barb and Scott's for the Cameron Highlands for some trekking and exploring... and hopefully some more fun animals!





















Wednesday, March 25, 2009

Through the Central Highlands and Back to the Big City

Sorry for the delay in posting, but without the camera postings just seemed to blah. So, the good news is, we have the camera back. With only a moderate struggle, they were able to replace the part, for a very reasonable cost, and we are back in business.

Vietnam has been really nice. After shopping and eating our fill with Chad in the very charming and tourist filled Hoi An, we headed to Da Nang. We actually visited a couple sights between Hoi An and Da Nang - including the Marble Mountains with caves of shrines that were packed with Vietnamese prayer makers and the Ba Na Hill station which we had to hitch a ride to the top of since it is technically closed for repairs. Both had stunning views and provided a good distraction from the backpacker's trail. Anyone headed here in 2015 should check out the renovated hill station - looks like quite a project.From Da Nang we hopped a minibus to Kon Tum, about a 4 hour journey into the central highlands of Vietnam. Kon Tum is a very small town and the main reason to visit is to see some of the traditional hill tribe villages that are a close journey from town. We did check them out and although most still have some traditional "Rong Houses" - very cool long buildings on stilts that have awesome thatched roofs and are supposedly built with no nails - that is about all that is traditional about them. As we have felt checking out "traditional" villages before, there is a thin line between poor and traditional. Most of the time here it teeters more on the poor side of the line.In Kon Tum we also had the interesting experience of meeting some Australian Vietnam veterans (2 were in Vietnam and one was actually a mine clearer in Cambodia) who were doing some work with the orphanages in Kon Tum. There are two "famous" ones, one connected to a beautiful church in town and one set back in the surrounding village. They are actually in the Lonely Planet so get a decent amount of tourists and while we were really expecting the worst, these places were not THAT bad. Do not get me wrong, it is sad, but the people who work there were incredibly loving and there are a decent amount of donations and many organizations like the one the guys we met were involved in helping out. We have seen a lot of poverty on the countryside here and it just makes you think that maybe some of these kids are better off, as sad as that is.From Kon Tum we headed about another 4 hours to Buon Ma Thout, a coffee town, also with hill tribes. The coffee was as good as they claimed and the interesting traditional houses did provide some nice sight seeing. Personally, Buon Ma Thout won my heart with the street of roll your own Vietnamese Spring rolls. You just get all the fillings and stuff to your heart content. I love food with a process and the mixture of textures and tastes made me drool even hours after just thinking about it.
From Vietnam
Last stop before coming back to Ho Chi Minh was Dalat, a beautiful little hill town about 6 hours from HCMC. Dalat is a bit of a domestic tourist town, people come to escape the heat, and it is really perfect for wandering. With a touch of French influenced architechture and downright cold weather in the evening, we had a great time walking everywhere. And due to the perfect weather, there was wonderful fruits and veg and we certainly indulged. Our only mistake was renting bikes one day - when you ask people who live in a hill town of the route is flat, note that their idea of what is flat might be VERY different than yours.HCMC, despite the insane heat and even more insane driving habits (really these people are CRAZY on the roads in a way I have never seen before), is a really great city. We got back here on Sunday and decided to adventure to the Cao Dai Temple via local bus and while it was a schlep, the country is stunning and the temple was very peaceful and beautiful. And Chad treated us to what might have been my favorite dish so far - a deep fried fish, served with herbs, vermicelli, veggies and a delightful dill/fish sauce dip. You roll up what you want in the rice paper, dip and enjoy. The combination of the flakey fish and crunchy fried bits, along with the fresh herbs and that dip. Mmm...
From Vietnam
Next stop is KL, where instead of mooching from the Canadian Embassy, we will mooch from the oil company employees and hang out with our friends Barb and Scott.

Sunday, March 15, 2009

Enjoying Vietnam

We arrived in HCMC (aka Saigon) last Friday and spent the weekend with our old friend from Jakarta, Chad, who works at the Canadian Consolate. We also randomly saw an old work friend of ours who we heard was in town (Jillian from Elderhostel) and my old college roommate (Vince) who is working at the US Consolate. After a great weekend gorging ourselves, we flew to Danang, in the middle of the country.
After a night and a morning in Danang we headed an hour south to Hoi An, a quaint little ancient town filled with tourists and tailors. Wandering aimlessly and getting clothes (and shoes) custom made are the thing to do, and we partook in both. Haviva got a great business suit, a fabulous winter jacket and a pair of leather boots made. Not sure when exactly they'll see use... As for me, I had a nice pair of brown shoes made, plus a shirt. I would have had a suit made, but I just had one custom made in Jakarta before we left.

We parted ways with Chad, who flew up for the weekend, and are now about to head inland to explore some less touristy areas of Vietnam (we can only hope).
Why no pictures, you ask? Our camera broke today. Chad has taken it back to HCMC and will look in to getting it fixed. In the mean time, we are camera-less.

Wednesday, March 04, 2009

Further North by Motorbike

The day after the cooking course we rented a motorbike, packed up a few days worth of clothes and headed north a couple hours to Chiang Dao, a nice little market town in the hills. We made a few stops on the way and got in just in time for a swim in the frigid pool at our not-so-budget accommodation. It had been recommended by multiple friends and was really only 20 bucks a night, but was a significant step up from our $8 a night room in Chiang Mai.
We spent two full days cruising around Chiang Dao. The first was spent on a great little hike through a bamboo forest which led to the caves that Chiang Dao is (duh) famous for and a trip to hot springs and waterfalls. The second was spent visiting some temples and monestaries, plus a visit to the big weekly market that draws people from all the surrounding villages.
It was a great few days. We put 420 km on our motorbike and loved it, although our butts are quite sore. Today we drove back down to Chiang Mai via a few stops along the way, including an elephant camp where retired logging elephants are put out to pasture. Now we are about to get on the overnight bus to Bangkok, where we'll pick up our Vietnamese visas and fly to Ho Chi Minh City on Friday.

Turning 33 in Thailand

...specifically in Chiang Mai.

As per my request, and as you can imagine Howie was happy to oblige, we spent the day doing one of the many cooking classes here in Chiang Mai. We chose a cooking class that took place on an organic farm, partly because we wanted something a little different and partly hoping to catch a glimpse of Norman's long lost cousin. There were no snail sightings (it is really dry here!!), but we had a pretty wonderful day anyway.

The day started with a market tour at a fabulous market on the outskirts of town. We got a quick but informative lesson on various kinds of rice and other Thai staples (our teacher was all business, but really warmed as the day went on) and then we were let loose for about 15 minutes to do some wandering. The market had about everything and Howie found a woman making fresh donuts (who can resist?) and I got my Thai iced coffee, as has become morning ritual here.

After the market it was off to the farm, about 20 mins outside the city. It is a nice place, small, but in a great rural setting and a virtual cooking school factory. There were three groups all taking classes at the same time, but they were great about keeping us separate and making the lessons personal. We did a quick tour of the farm, in our spiffy farm gear, and then it was on to cooking. We each had our won cooking station and I made green curry, while Howie made red. And this was read deal, mortar and pestle and all.

It took a lot of pounding, but we did end up with paste and from there things went fast. So we had the curries, then soup - Howie Tom Yum, Coconut milk and mushroom (a new fave for me here) then we made some stir fry, broke for lunch and then, completely full, we both made noodle dishes (I made pad thai, Howie made "big noodles") and then, last but not least, mango and sticky rice.

Everything we made in the afternoon became take-away and turned out to be a great dinner at the picnic tables outside the hostel, along with the bottle of wine we have been lugging since Jakarta. Quite possibly a perfect birthday.

For anyone coming this way, check out www.thaifarmcooking.net.