Saturday, March 28, 2009
Birds and Elephants in Kuala Lumpur
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
Through the Central Highlands and Back to the Big City
| From Vietnam |
| From Vietnam |
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Enjoying Vietnam
We arrived in HCMC (aka Saigon) last Friday and spent the weekend with our old friend from Jakarta, Chad, who works at the Canadian Consolate. We also randomly saw an old work friend of ours who we heard was in town (Jillian from Elderhostel) and my old college roommate (Vince) who is working at the US Consolate. After a great weekend gorging ourselves, we flew to Danang, in the middle of the country.
After a night and a morning in Danang we headed an hour south to Hoi An, a quaint little ancient town filled with tourists and tailors. Wandering aimlessly and getting clothes (and shoes) custom made are the thing to do, and we partook in both. Haviva got a great business suit, a fabulous winter jacket and a pair of leather boots made. Not sure when exactly they'll see use... As for me, I had a nice pair of brown shoes made, plus a shirt. I would have had a suit made, but I just had one custom made in Jakarta before we left.
We parted ways with Chad, who flew up for the weekend, and are now about to head inland to explore some less touristy areas of Vietnam (we can only hope).

Wednesday, March 04, 2009
Further North by Motorbike
The day after the cooking course we rented a motorbike, packed up a few days worth of clothes and headed north a couple hours to Chiang Dao, a nice little market town in the hills. We made a few stops on the way and got in just in time for a swim in the frigid pool at our not-so-budget accommodation. It had been recommended by multiple friends and was really only 20 bucks a night, but was a significant step up from our $8 a night room in Chiang Mai.
We spent two full days cruising around Chiang Dao. The first was spent on a great little hike through a bamboo forest which led to the caves that Chiang Dao is (duh) famous for and a trip to hot springs and waterfalls. The second was spent visiting some temples and monestaries, plus a visit to the big weekly market that draws people from all the surrounding villages.
It was a great few days. We put 420 km on our motorbike and loved it, although our butts are quite sore. Today we drove back down to Chiang Mai via a few stops along the way, including an elephant camp where retired logging elephants are put out to pasture. Now we are about to get on the overnight bus to Bangkok, where we'll pick up our Vietnamese visas and fly to Ho Chi Minh City on Friday.
Turning 33 in Thailand
...specifically in Chiang Mai.
As per my request, and as you can imagine Howie was happy to oblige, we spent the day doing one of the many cooking classes here in Chiang Mai. We chose a cooking class that took place on an organic farm, partly because we wanted something a little different and partly hoping to catch a glimpse of Norman's long lost cousin. There were no snail sightings (it is really dry here!!), but we had a pretty wonderful day anyway.

The day started with a market tour at a fabulous market on the outskirts of town. We got a quick but informative lesson on various kinds of rice and other Thai staples (our teacher was all business, but really warmed as the day went on) and then we were let loose for about 15 minutes to do some wandering. The market had about everything and Howie found a woman making fresh donuts (who can resist?) and I got my Thai iced coffee, as has become morning ritual here.

After the market it was off to the farm, about 20 mins outside the city. It is a nice place, small, but in a great rural setting and a virtual cooking school factory. There were three groups all taking classes at the same time, but they were great about keeping us separate and making the lessons personal. We did a quick tour of the farm, in our spiffy farm gear, and then it was on to cooking. We each had our won cooking station and I made green curry, while Howie made red. And this was read deal, mortar and pestle and all.

It took a lot of pounding, but we did end up with paste and from there things went fast. So we had the curries, then soup - Howie Tom Yum, Coconut milk and mushroom (a new fave for me here) then we made some stir fry, broke for lunch and then, completely full, we both made noodle dishes (I made pad thai, Howie made "big noodles") and then, last but not least, mango and sticky rice.

Everything we made in the afternoon became take-away and turned out to be a great dinner at the picnic tables outside the hostel, along with the bottle of wine we have been lugging since Jakarta. Quite possibly a perfect birthday.
For anyone coming this way, check out www.thaifarmcooking.net.
As per my request, and as you can imagine Howie was happy to oblige, we spent the day doing one of the many cooking classes here in Chiang Mai. We chose a cooking class that took place on an organic farm, partly because we wanted something a little different and partly hoping to catch a glimpse of Norman's long lost cousin. There were no snail sightings (it is really dry here!!), but we had a pretty wonderful day anyway.
The day started with a market tour at a fabulous market on the outskirts of town. We got a quick but informative lesson on various kinds of rice and other Thai staples (our teacher was all business, but really warmed as the day went on) and then we were let loose for about 15 minutes to do some wandering. The market had about everything and Howie found a woman making fresh donuts (who can resist?) and I got my Thai iced coffee, as has become morning ritual here.
After the market it was off to the farm, about 20 mins outside the city. It is a nice place, small, but in a great rural setting and a virtual cooking school factory. There were three groups all taking classes at the same time, but they were great about keeping us separate and making the lessons personal. We did a quick tour of the farm, in our spiffy farm gear, and then it was on to cooking. We each had our won cooking station and I made green curry, while Howie made red. And this was read deal, mortar and pestle and all.
It took a lot of pounding, but we did end up with paste and from there things went fast. So we had the curries, then soup - Howie Tom Yum, Coconut milk and mushroom (a new fave for me here) then we made some stir fry, broke for lunch and then, completely full, we both made noodle dishes (I made pad thai, Howie made "big noodles") and then, last but not least, mango and sticky rice.
Everything we made in the afternoon became take-away and turned out to be a great dinner at the picnic tables outside the hostel, along with the bottle of wine we have been lugging since Jakarta. Quite possibly a perfect birthday.
For anyone coming this way, check out www.thaifarmcooking.net.
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
To Thailand, Stop Number One
The boxes were shipped... (5 boxes coming in at almost exactly 20 kilos each, keep your fingers crossed they make it across the ocean...)
The goodbyes and the "See you in Bali in April!" were said and we were off (with about 10 of our friends all flying Air Asia to Bangkok for the frisbee tourney. An excellent ease into leaving.)
Howie had a good, if not sweltering hot, tournament. He was camo, perhaps only a slightly less ugly colored shirt to carry with you for a long journey than neon green, and while his team did not do stellar, they had fun and won the most spirited team award. Howie played a lot, and well, and has some nice looking scrapes on his knees from some good laying out for the disc. I spent my days split between mornings out and about with our friends Dana and Gilles who were in Bangkok hanging out for the weekend and afternoons on the fields, cheering the many Jakarta players on. I, of course, ate well and had a lot of fun on the side lines.
After the tournament, we headed out to Sukothai, a stop on the way to Chiang Mai that has some ancient temple ruins. Sukothai is HOT. I mean really sweaty, hot. But that did not stop us. We arrived in the late afternoon and did some wandering, checking out the little local markets and enjoying local culture. While Sukothai has its tourists, it is still a small, quaint little town, with only a few backpacker hangouts. It is still weird for us to see so many foreigners around, and hear so many languages spoken.
Today we took some local transport into the Old City, rented some bikes and checked the ruins out. Good lord was it hot, but we persevered. The ruins are quite spread out, although no Angkor Wat in size, and there are nice roads leading you around from chedi to chedi and Buddha to Buddha. What is nice is that, despite the bus loads of people we saw entering the park, it was really peaceful, there were very few vendors (none of whom were pushy at all) and at times it felt like we had the place to ourselves. We were there from about 10 AM to 3 PM when we finally withered and were ruined-out (so to speak). Despite the heat, it was a really nice day. For anyone who plans this in the future, pack a lunch. It would have been a great place to cycle around and then plo down somewhere and have a nice bite to eat.
Tomorrow we are off to Chiang Mai, about 5 1/2 hours from here. We are hoping to take a cooking class and maybe a Thai massage, but not sure about that yet... We will keep you posted!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
A tailor met too late, a dress just in time
I found this batik fabric on a trip to Solo way back when and finally found a fabulous tailor who made this dress. I am so bummed I met this woman so late. She came to the apartment, measured me and was not interested in small talk; all business with Ibu Nana. I handed off the material, made an appointment for one week later and, poof!, she showed up with this. Yay! If you live in Jakarta and want to get some stuff made, give her a call: 0811862920.
Monday, February 16, 2009
Too many goodbyes
This past week has been very bittersweet, with far too many goodbyes for our taste. It started on Friday the 13th (ominous!) with a trip to the office with cheesecake. As is the Indonesian tradition, when you have anything special happen in your life, you bring the treats. The office was VERY excited about the arrival of the cheesecakes. So excited in fact, they devoured them in mere minutes and Howie and I did not even get a taste.
Finally, today we also had to say goodbye to our favorite slimy friend, Norman. The farm has moved to some new swanky digs and they were not opposed to taking Norman back again. It was very hard to part with the little guy, but he is definitely in good hands. And the new farm is looking great. They have partnered with some good people and seem to be steady on their feet, which is wonderful as it is a project we really like.
Following the cheesecake excitement, I headed to a new wine bar in town for my last "Ladies Night." I passed the torch and this one was organized by another lady and it was a huge success. There were 25 ladies and many, many bottles of wine consumed, much to everyone's delight. But it is not all about the wine, we also had the first book auction, where, for a minimal price, I auctioned off books that are not making the trip back to the US. Books are really hard to come by here so this was a big hit and all the proceeds went the final (very large) bill from the evening. Everyone wins!
Sunday night we invited the reporters from HighEnd and HighEnd teen over for dinner. While we may have some choice words to say about some of the management, etc. at HighEnd, we love the reporters. They are a really sweet group and while I think the reports on the Mexican meal we made might be mixed, we had a great time. It was hard to say goodbye - especially since they performed a little song for us and presented us with a really nice book of letters and pictures from them. It was incredibly heartwarming and we will miss those guys a lot.
Sunday, February 15, 2009
The Bagel Maven of Jakarta
This was batch one and it was delish. He started with plain and has since made another batch, this time zataar. Who knows what flavor will be next, but what I am trying to figure out is why we did not do this sooner.
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
Good Waves and Good Friends
For once, Howie and I were not on deadline, so Howie got to enjoy the hammock sans laptop, which was a huge pleasure. People staggered in throughout Friday and then Saturday, after the day started with pancakes and banana bread french toast (a la Howie), we had a huge fish BBQ for dinner prepared by the Ibu (the maid/woman of the house). All I can say is that Howie and the Ibu are darn good cooks. I did my part with a chocolate cake for our friend Gilles who celebrated 33 over the weekend, and eggs in a hole (rocky mountain toast, whatever you want to call it) for breakfast Sunday. It was a delicious weekend in addition to a fun one.
We totally lucked out on the weather as we are in the heart of rainy season here. It poured pretty much the whole ride down on Friday, but we only had a couple small and quick passing storms over the rest of the weekend.

Now we are back in Jakarta and with under 2 weeks to go, we are busy running around taking care of last minute things and packing. It is pretty insane to think that our over 2 years are coming to an end and, in fact, I think we are both doing our best not to think about it much. It is weekends like this we will definitely miss the most. Good friends, the beach and good food - it does not get better than that!
Monday, January 26, 2009
The Year of the Ox
Happy Chinese New Year! (or as it is known here, Imlek)
Sunday, January 25, 2009
Fifi and Dani Get Married
Fifi is one of our friends from the marketing department at HighEnd and the other week she plopped a wedding invite on our desks. This was quite a shock since we did not even know that Fifi had a boyfriend. What came as a double shock was when she said she had actually been married for about 6 months and this was just the party (what I lovingly refer to as the bash for cash.) Very typical of Indonesian weddings - the intricate and complicated Javanese ceremony, the part we find the most interesting, is intimate and only for family - and the big party is open to anyone and everyone.
As you might remember from our last wedding, the process is basically put on your batik, head to the enormous hall (this particular one was near our old place and was holding 6 weddings on the same night, we are disappointed we had not crashed weddings there when we lived in the neighborhood), sign the book, drop your money filled envelope in the box, receive a weird and somewhat random gift (this time a lovely batik tissue box holder... eek), wait on line to shake hands and say congrats to the bride and groom, eat and leave.
There were well over 1,000 people at the wedding and poor Fifi and Dani spent the whole two hours shaking hands, her with an insanely heavy looking headdress on. We had fun eating whatever we could, it was a good spread, and hanging out with other work people.
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