Animal Transport

You might think that we're riding the local buses with sheep, pigs and goats aboard, but you'd be wrong. Chickens are the only ones lucky enough to ride in the bus, but only when there's room to stuff them under a seat (the well kept fighting cocks might get a seat). The rest get strapped to the front or back or just thrown on top of the bus.

Timor Leste

New years day was a bit quiet, but we spent the day exploring the city. We headed to see Jesus, or at least the giant statue of him at the top of a peak at the end of a nice peninsula, only yo find that this is where all the people in Dili were. Typically an expat area and despite the rain, the beaches were filled with local playing volleyball and generally hanging out. Lots of naked kids running around on the beach. While it looked nice, there were no foreigners around and we decided the smartest thing to do was let the locals have their fun and head to see Jesus another day. Shelly has been there a bunch we headed out a couple days later without here to catch the nice view. A little windy, but you really can see for quite way and the beaches on the other side were gorgeous.

Since Shelly had off January 2nd as well, we headed into central Timor Leste to a "mountain town" that is known for some classic Portuguese architecture and the famed East Timor shade grown coffee. The drive was beautiful and although there is little left of the famed architecture and coffee season is in July, we had a nice day. The little villages are quaintly tucked in the hills and the people and there was no where with a bad view.

Mostly here we are doing a lot of scenic driving and cooking this week. There are great literally deserted white sand beaches to be explored, but the weather has not been cooperating so we seem to end up coming home with groceries and spending hours on dinner (which is fine with us since it has been some time since we have been not bee dependent on a menu.) We also have had lots of internet time so you can now enjoy some photos from Malaysia thru now.

http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/PenangMalaysia
http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/LombokFloresWestTimor

Starting the new year in a new country

We arrived in Dili, East Timor on New Year's Eve day after a great couple of weeks on Flores, the land of beautiful scenery, wonderful people, insanely windy roads, local buses filled with chickens, pigs, goats and vomiting locals and roosters that can't tell time and start crowing at 3AM. It was a crazy end to 2007 but we made it to Dili in time to celebrate with our friend Shelley, who is housing us for the time we are here.

Our last week in Flores was great. It started with some really interesting traditional villages around Bajawa. We expected Bajawa and the villages to be very touristy and not really authentic, but were very surprised by the reality. Although there were a few ikat (the traditional woven clothing of both men and women, sort of like a sarong but a bit thicker) hanging around and for sale, the people clearly really lived there, the ikat were obviously made there and the feel was quite genuine. Despite a little rain we had a good village experience and even got a nice hot "shower" in the hot springs about one hour outside of town. (Flores is known for not having any hot showers and hot springs or buckets of boiled water at your hotel are your best bet.)

From there we headed to Moni in an attempt to see the multicolored crater lakes of Kelimutu volcano. I say "attempted" because the rainy season is not the ideal time to be hanging out on the tops of Indonesian volcanoes. In the end we got lucky and were able to see them - onle a great turquise, one chocolate and one slightly rusty colored - only to have our motorbike break down on the way down the volcano, forcing us to hike a few km to the next village and hitch a ride to the bottom. Thank goodness there was a nice guy with a motorbike since we were about 15 K from Moni.

The next morning we woke up and look a local bus 4 hours to Maumere, where we had hoped to get a boat to West Timor. Unfortunately all boats were canceled for a few days because of high seas, so we headed to the airport to try to find a flight. We sat there on standby for 5 hours before they announced that the flight was being rerouted and skipping Maumere due to bad weather. Luckily the airline put on an extra flight the next morning, so we made it to Kupang, West Timor on the 30th, thinking we'd relax and take an 11-hour bus ride to Dili on the 31st.

When we got to our hotel they told us that there would be no such bus because New Year's Eve day is a holiday, so we quickly checked out and found a public bus headed 8 hours up the road on the way to East Timor. We woke up early on the 31st and finished the journey in plenty of time to scrub the filth off ourselves and spend New Year's Eve with Shelley and friends.

Happy New Year to all!!

Its been a long journey from there to here

Sorry sorry sorry...we know it has been a while since the last posting, but please know it is not for lack of effort. This side of the archipelago is a bit more "rustic"....

Anyway, a somewhat brief update: Toba despite the rain ended up being great. I sneezed three times in a row and according to our neighbors from Holland, that made for good weather the next day. We rented a motorbike and cruised around the island. Gorgeous scenery and we even took in a bit of culture. There were two things on the "tourist map", but sadly we could only find one - the stone chairs, which are exactly what they sound like and sadly not the most impressive things in the world. It was a nice ride though and we got back just in time to take a swim before it started to rain again.

From there we headed the next day to Lombok, a island east of Bali (they dub themselves "Bali's sister island" but we don't like that title....) It was a 4 hour car ride with 7 others (one vomiting most of the way) to Medan and then two planes to Lombok. We arrived late in the evening, but were very happy to wake up on the beach. We were in the main tourist center - Senggigi to do some basic planning since that is the last tourist hub we would see for a while. Senggigi is not much to speak of so we booked our boat to Flores (where we are now) and headed to Gili Air - a small small island off the coast of Lombok quite popular with backpackers. It was nice and relaxing. We had fresh fish for dinner brought in by the fisherman right to shore for us to pick out and we did some nice snorkeling as well.

After 2 days of Gili Air, we headed back to Senggigi and joined 12 others for a 4 day/3 night boat trip to Flores, stopping on the way for snorkeling and a trip to Komodo National Park to see the famous endangered Komodo Dragons. Before you get any glamorous ideas, this was not in any way shape or form a luxury cruise. The first reaction at the sight of the boat was "This is it??" We all slept on deck (10 on the upper upper, 4 on the upper) and the squat toilet was some porcelain around a hole to the ocean. The engine had some trouble and we missed much of one day and there is one day where you sail for 18 hours where we hit some slightly rough seas at 2:30 AM. Everything was slightly damp, if not wet, and the bag of ice that was chilling our 8 beers for the journey was melted by day 2. BUT, with all that said, it was a fine cheap way to get to Flores, we had some really good snorkeling that included a shark sighting, a couple eels and a lion fish. We also caught sight of some komodos, which was cool. We were a bit disappointed as none were chowing on buffalo or really doing much more than lazing in the sun, but they are enormous.

The scenery in this part of the archipelago was amazing as well. Like nothing else we have seen, Komodo and many of the surrounding islands are dry - like something out of a sci-fi movie there are great hills of nothing but scorched yellow grass with a couple random green trees poking out of the tops. Although a long journey, it was pretty.

We had big plans to get some things done upon arrival in Flores at Labuan Bajo, but sadly our efforts were a bit fruitless - the Internet was nonexistent, the boat office we needed was mysteriously closed and the post office as well shut down on Fridays at 11 AM. Oh well. We wandered all we could of Labuan Bajo and then headed to Seraya Island - a small almost completely deserted island about an hour from Labuan Bajo. There is only one little string of bungalows (very simple with electricity only on from 6 PM to 10:30 PM) a white sand beach and a really nice reef for snorkeling. A great hide away and by sheer luck some friends from Jakarta were staying there for Christmas. It was nice to see friendly faces. We had amazing snorkeling here - we followed a turtle for about 45 min (he even let Howie pet him a little on the back) saw a school of polka dotted sting rays, and a ton of beautiful fish and coral. It was a nice escape before what we think will be the real backpacking in Flores.

Flores is a lot less developed than most places we have been. Just to give you some idea, we are in Ruteng, the big city that has - gasp! - a grocery store. The road here was incredibly curvy, actually never straight for the full 3 hours, and we were up in the clouds for a long time. The views were amazing and we hear it only gets better from here. Hopefully so will the internet connections and picture will hopefully be soon to follow. From here we head across Flores to see some of the small villages and volcanos and then on to Dili (East Timor) for a visa run and visit to our friends John and Shelly who just moved there about a month ago.

Happy holidays to all. And Happy New Year (just in case we are not close to a computer then...) Pics to be posted as soon as we have the connection to do so...

Majestic (rainy) Lake Toba

Back in Indonesia after a 5 hour boat ride from Penang and then an almost 6 hour minibus ride to Lake Toba. It was a long day of traveling, but well worth it when we arrived in Tuk Tuk - both a fun place to say and a beautiful spot.

Tuk Tuk is on an "island" in Lake Toba about the size of Singapore. A real little backpacker haven, (well set up for backpackers but they seem to be few and far between) we are at a wonderful little hotel right on the lake. The water is clean and clear and when it was not raining we had a great swim and really enjoyed the spot. Sadly, it has been raining since about 5 PM yesterday, but we are still hoping for some noon clearing as seems to be typical this time of year.

Wednesday we head off across the archipelago to Lombok - an island east of Bali that is supposed to be what Bali was like before it became the tourist hotspot that it is. There are a couple even smaller islands that we plan to hit off of there as well, so I guess Toba is just the start of some good lazing in the sun for us.

Eating, Dining, Snacking and Grazing

We saw off my parents on Monday and then headed for Penang, Malysia on Tuesday because my visa was expiring. Wednesday we spent the day eating. No, really. Here's the damage so far (all at different stalls/restaurants) and we're planning on hitting the Chinese night market on the way home:

10:00 - Breakfast of toast and jam at the hotel.
12:00 - char kwao tiaw (Malay stirfried noodles)
12:30 - a fried red bean bun
1:00 - a veggie curry puff in Little India
2:00 - asam laksa - sour fish soup, a Panang specialty
2:30 - some crazy 'sherbert' drink that claims to be the most thirst quenching drink known to man - not bad
3:00-5:00 - nap/food coma
7:00 - back to Little India for oothaban, some kind of savory Indian pacake that is fun to say and to smother in sauces

Tomorrow it is off to a national park for a hike to a beach then it is back to Indonesia in a few days.

A villa, some Parnes, and a whole lot of orangutans

Although it has been our first couple weeks officially as nomads, they have been quite luxurious. It has been an easy entry into life in the road and living out of our packs. The Parnes arrived in Bali last week and we met them at Villa Padi – a stunning villa in the middle of a rice padi about a 500m walk to the beach. We had our own little private pool and a Balinese style living and dining room. The package included one free half hour massage for each of us (which the men forfeited over to the ladies so we could have an hour each), a free seafood bbq (nice red snapper that served as a Thanksgiving dinner), and a car and driver for 8 hours a day (who took up to Ubud one day for a little culture even though some had to be a bit dragged from the villa). Our chef cooked us breakfast in the morning and had the coffee waiting, we were the only people on the beach every time we were there…it was paradise.

From there we did a repeat of The Cohen Family trip to Indonesia and headed to Jogja. It was more of a repeat than we would have liked as Leslie was not feeling great that day, so much like Sharon, she spent one day curled up in the lovely Mercure hotel bed, while we wandered the bird market. We did make it to Borobudur the next day though and we had a great day weaving our way to Magelang, a mid stop on our way to Semarang where we had to catch our flight to Kalimantan to see the orangutans. There is not much between Jogja and Semarang so although the stop was a bit strange – a sort of circus like hotel in the middle of nowhere surrounded by volcanoes and a lovely rolling river – it served its purpose and had a pretty cool swimming pool with a water slide that the young Parnes quite enjoyed.

The flight to Kalimantan, Indonesia’s part Borneo (Malaysia and Bunei share Borneo with Indonesia) was very smooth despite the 10k weight limit on the bags and the small prop plane. A little re-arranging of the Parnes large bags they have been schlepping for 3 weeks since New Zealand, a bag left behind in the Semarang airport (which was there with all its contents when we returned) and some magic motion-sickness prevention wrist bracelets made it a breeze. Upon arrival in Pankalanbun (town of about 39,000 and the gateway to the national park) we were met by our guide where we took a car to a boat that took us to the Rimba Lodge. The lodge is in the middle of the national park and where we spent the night – when you do this trip your only choices for accommodation are sleeping on the boat or the lodge and while the boat is pretty cool, the lodge was a bit more “parent friendly”. The boat ride there was great and there was some amazing monkey and ape sighting on the way. It was a really good sign of things to come. We caught a tree full of proboscis monkeys with the coolest profiles and long hanging tails and we even saw a giant orangutan female in her nest settling in for the night. She was incredible – high in a tree but she stood out with her bright orange hair hanging on to one branch with a long arm and staring right back at us. We were definitely in the jungle.

The next day was all about orangutans. We started at one of the camps about an hour down the river and watched a feeding. The orangutans are released into the wild slowly and the feedings act to both supplement their diet and to help the researchers keep track of various orangutans. It is a simple platform in the middle of the jungle strewn with bananas and some buckets of sweetened milk. It took little patience but slowly you would start to hear trees rustle around you and suddenly they were coming in from all angles. Typically the dominant male comes in first (the males have these huge identifying cheek pads and are really large), although some of those young men did get a sneak in before he got there on this feeding. He has his share and then the mothers and babies generally get in on the action. It was totally incredible. We were so close to the platform and the orangutans were not fussed at all by our being there. They went about stuffing their faces with bananas, swinging on trees as if there was nothing strange at all going on.

From there we went on to Camp Leeky about another hour down the river for another feeding. There are more orangutans who just hang out at Camp Leeky so here more than the first place you are very up close and personal with the apes. Actually, we were so up close and personal that when we arrived there was an orangutan and her baby waiting for us when the boat pulled up. I could not help myself and I sat down pretty close to her on a step. She sauntered over, put her arm around me, clamped one of her feet around my ankle and that was it, we were friends. You are not supposed to touch the orangutans and even though I knew it was wrong I could not stop. Her name was Princess and she is a naughty orangutan who has grown up in Camp Leeky. She knows sign language, has about 5 children and 2 grandchildren, and she has been known to steal a canoe or two and paddle up river. She made me scratch her back – she actually lifted my hand and put it on her back – and we are buddies. AMAZING. Howie sat with her too, but that was not about friendship, she was looking to pick his pockets. The feeding that followed was similar to the morning feeding, except this one included a wild boar who ate the banana peels that fell to the ground and seemed to really freak out some of the orangutans. Again, it was an incredible sight and hard to explain in words.

Now we are back in Jakarta and the Parnes will head back to Arizona tomorrow. We have purchased cheap glasses, had a huge success at the outlet malls and eaten some very fine meals. Howie and I even made it to a nice goodbye party for a couple of our friends moving to East Timor last night. It is weird to be a nomad in a city we lived in and still feel like we do, but we are having fun. The real adventures start December 4^th when we head to Penang Malaysia for a visa run. From there we have no idea where we are going or what we are doing, but we will keep you posted.

For more pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/ParnesFamilyTrip

Please join me in congratulating Haviva on her last day of work...

That means we've been in Jakarta for exactly one year. It also means that, because of stoopid Indonesian visa rules, Haviva is off to Singapore for the day so she can come back on a tourist visa and officially begin her life of leisure. I've got 4 more days of work - done on Tuesday. Then it's off to Bali to meet my parents for some exploring.

Holy Krakatoa

Please forgive the occasional expletives in the above video, but I assure you there were appropriate at the time. For 6 months we've been talking about chartering the Cecelia Ann, a 60ft sailboat, and sailing to Anak Krakatoa, the "Child of Krakatoa". We finally went this past weekend with 8 friends and were lucky enough to see it erupt for the first time in years. And luck for us our captain was as excited to see it up close as we were, so we got to see quite a show.

The weekend started after work on Friday when we drove a couple of hours west and boarded the boat. We sailed all night and arrived at a great snorkeling spot, where we had breakfast and spent the morning checking out the reef. After lunch we sailed to Krakatoa. Because the government has constantly been changing the no-go zone we weren't sure just how close we'd be able to get. The original boundary was 3km but then it was changed to 10km when the eruptions increased.

Our captain had heard there weren't any patrol boats in the area so after lunch we sailed through the ash cloud to a point about 3km away with the volcano erupting every 15 to 20 minutes. Just before nightfall we sought shelter in a little bay that was (sadly) out of sight of the volcano. A few of us convinced the captain to take us out in the Zodiac to watch it erupt at night, but I won't talk about how cool that was because Haviva didn't get to go.

In the morning we woke up at 4:30 and sailed around the corner to see some nighttime eruptions. With no light in the sky you could see the lava bubbling in the crater as well as the glowing rocks being shot out. After sunrise the captain was feeling confident that A) it was safe and B) there were no patrol boats around so we sailed to about 1 km directly in front of the newly formed crater on the side of the volcano. That's where the best of our video was taken, and also where some Jakarta-based reporters boarded our boat to take some photos and ask some questions.

Sure enough, we woke up this morning in Jakarta to find a photo of three of our friends eating breakfast with Krakatoa erupting in the background on the cover of the Jakarta Post and a similar photo with Haviva and I in it on the cover of another local paper. Their photos and accompanying story turned up all over the web, too. The coolest photo is of our boat with the lava flowing in the background. Truly unforgettable weekend all around, and I didn't even get to the part where Haviva swam with her second turtle.

More photos at www.picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/krakatoa

2 nights, 6 buses, 2 motocycle taxis, lots of amazing scenery

Haviva had a business trip to Padang at the end of last week so I flew out to meet her for a quick long weekend in the hills of Sumatra. We decided to be overly ambitious and see as much as we could in 2 1/2 days.

I arrived at 8AM on Saturday and we went straight to Bukitinggi, a small hilltop city. After a quick walk around and some lunch we hopped the local bus to Payakumbuh and then took motorcycle taxis to the Hurau Valley, which leaps to the top of the list of most beautiful places we've seen. Picture a steep-walled canyon filled with rice paddies. It was absolutely beautiful - one of those places you just wander around with a smile on your face.

After a night there we headed back to Payakumbuh by motorcycle, then by bus back to Bukitinggi, then another bus to Maninjau, home of a Lake Maninjau, a huge volcanic crater lake. The highlight of the ride into Maninjau is the stretch of road with 44 switchbacks leading down to the lake from the crater rim. When we got to that point I managed to trade my seat for the spot standing on the bottom step of the open door, where I could hang on for life with one hand and snap photos of the incredible view with the other. Good times.

After a night in a lakeside bungalow we retraced our steps by bus back to Bukitinggi and then on to the airport to fly home. It wasn't the most leisurely of weekends, but it certainly was beautiful.

More photos at http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/Padang

Go Sox!

Caught the game with Chad and Trish, bagels, creamcheese, lox, hashbrowns and curry puffs. Not your usual baseball watching snacks, but suited our Indonesian expat 7 AM baseball watching just perfectly. Hope you all heard us cheering on the other side of the world!

Gunung Guntur

Just got back from a weekend in Cipanas - a small village about 3 or 4 hours southeast of Jakarta known for its hot springs and volcanoes. We hiked up Gunung Guntur on Saturday with the Java Lava hiking group. The hike itself was a bit tough and not the best volcano we have climbed (we are starting to be picky). The trail started in a nice jungle, but then abruptly went pretty straight up and turned into volcanic rubble and tall dry weeds. No shade and hard to stop since the ground never really leveled off. It was a nice view from the top and we had fun on the climb with the group. Howie especially loved sliding down the scree at lightening speed on the way down.

Sunday we enjoyed the giant hot spring pool at the hotel which even had a fun water slide dumping you into hot water and a crowd of very amused Indonesians. We also strolled through the village and checked out the rice padis, cauliflower and tomato fields. It was a beautiful sight with the lush fields surrounded by volcanoes.

Tomorrow it is up early to watch the Sox again with the other displaced members of Red Sox nation. Go SOX!

More photos at www.picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/gunungguntur

Red Sox + 7AM start = Big Apple Pancake

I'm happy to report that we have been getting all the Red Sox playoff games. They start at 7 AM, so this morning we invited some fellow Sox fans over for breakfast and the Sox. I made a Parnes' family favorite - Big Apple Pancake. It wasn't quite the same with palm sugar instead of brown sugar, and our Easy Bake oven didn't get quite hot enough, but it was tasty as always.

Looking forward to Game 7 tomorrow morning at 7. Lucky for me I had the foresight to make sure I'm not working until 2 in the afternoon.

Hiking volcanoes and finding Nemo

I still cannot wipe the smile off my face from our wonderful trip this past weekend to Manado. We arrived late Thursday night and were picked up by the good people at the Highland Resort and Spa. The resort is just outside of Manado nestled in the hills of Tomahon. The cabin was cute, all made of coconut wood and we woke up in the morning to gorgeous views of volcanoes and the small village below.

One of the guys who picked us up, Charles, offered to hike with us, which is normally something we decline, but since he was quite a nice guy and this was “no guide fee, great service at the Highland resort” we decided to take him up on it. We hiked up a nice small volcano – Gunung Mahawu – which even though it was late in the morning, was pretty clear and had great views. We could see Manado, Gunung Lokon (the larger active volcano we were told not to climb since it has been a bit bubbly lately) and even Bunaken – the small island we headed to next for a few days of snorkeling.

Charles took us up and over the volcano and then led us into town to his local favorite lunch spot. Could not tell you the name, it was a hole in the wall that fed us our new favorite food – Tinatuan or Bubur Manado. Bubur is usually not something we are into as it typically means porridge of some sort, but this was more of a soup made of pumpkin, cassava, corn and some leavy greens that had a hint of citrus. (A version we had a couple days later had some rice in it as well.) It was phenomenal and you could see after a long morning or day in the fields why people would eat it. Filling but not too heavy and full of flavor.

We also hit the local market in the morning (before the hike) where we were presented with all the local delights including the specialties of bat and dog. The bats were speared and frightening the dogs just hard to look at (especially the cages of live dogs awaiting their immanent trip to the fire pit.) There was no part of any animal spared and the place was hopping since it was the day before Idul Fitri.

From there we headed to Manado to catch the boat to Bunaken. Manado was pretty dead due to the holiday so outside of a great sunset from the pool at the hotel, there is not much to talk about. Bunaken on the other hand was AMAZING. Since it is a small volcanic island the reef simply surrounds the whole thing. The snorkeling is like swimming inside a tropical aquarium. The first day we jut put in right from the resort and saw some amazing things – bright blue starfish, Nemo and various other things we have seen only in Chinese restaurant tanks. Incredible color and variety. The second day we joined the group of divers staying at our place (a lively group from Germany, Austria, England and Ireland who dive together every year, using their 3 weeks of European holiday) and headed to the other side of the island for some equally exciting snorkeling. In the last 20 minutes of our second snorkel I spotted a turtle hanging out on the reef wall. We followed him into the middle of the sea as he swam around, a couple times popping his head up for some air. It was incredible. In the blue water he looked like he was flying and at some points he was no more than a couple feet from either of us. It was a total rush.

It was a beautiful and relaxing trip and of course it has been hard to get back into the work week - the sign of a good holiday! Only 4 weeks left of work here in Indo so this was really just a prelude of what is to come.

More pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/NorthSulawesi

Eating Habits

I know we do not usually use the blog for this sort of thing, but this article is appealing to me on so many levels I had to pass it on to all of you: http://www.slate.com/id/2175569/nav/ais/

It seems all the adventurous eating we have done on our travels may have in fact gained us a few extra years. Of course, I suppose, one could add the smog and pollution into the equation, and take a few years off, and maybe say we have just evened ourselves out, but all in all the argument that, "eh a little poo will not kill you" seems to be true, at least for us hearty people living in the developing world...And it certainly has made the travels much more fun. Read until the end, the last paragraph about Cholent is particularly amusing.

We head out tomorrow to Manado, on the island of Sulawesi, for more eating adventures. We are not hoping for poo in our food, but fear it a little bit less now.

The Lost City of Atlantis

Well, sort of. Actually, Atlantis, the water park in Jakarta. I was getting jealous of Howie's Wednesdays off and decided to take one of the many comp days I have piled up and take part in some of the adventures. We headed to Ancol, the amusement park area on the coast. All sorts of things to do there including a Disney Land like theme park, an art market and our pick, Atlantis. It was a nice escape from the city and it being Ramadan and mid-week, we had the place to ourselves. Our friends Maiko, Adam and Shelly joined in on the fun and despite what looked like the best slide being closed, we all made the most of the slightly fresher air, lack of other people and one very steep slide.

Tiger Islands - Pulau Macan

We have just returned from a great weekend in what might be paradise – Pulau Macan, one of the 1000 Islands. The 1000 Islands (Pulau Seribu) are a string of islands located off the coast of Java, about an hour and a half by boat from Jakarta. No relation to the dressing of the same name, these islands feel like another world. When the boat speeds off from the very smelly and polluted Jakarta harbor it is hard to imagine the crystal clear blue and green waters and the white sandy beach that await you. Pulau Macan is a small island with pretty basic, but nice accommodations. The real highlight is jumping off the dock, putting on your snorkel gear and working your way to the small deserted island about 150 meters away. Gorgeous fish and coral mark the way and the fine white sand beach is well worth the swim. It was like being inside one of those travel magazines.

They also took us for a great boat ride to another small island (inhabited by only two fishing families) to watch an amazing sunset - wine sunset and snacks after a day of snorkeling and sunbathing...um, perfect. To top it off the food all weekend was great. Fishermen literally docked on the island and presented their goods to the chef, who picked out some amazing fish and did wonders on the grill. The oatmeal and chocolate chip cookies they gave us on the boat ride over was a great indication of things to come. Two days definitely felt like much longer and the escape from hot, slightly smelly, crowded and polluted Jakarta was well appreciated. (Even if it made for a very hard Monday back at work.)

More pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/howieandhaviva/PulauMacan

Puasa

It is Ramadan time here in Indonesia and definitely not as restrictive as Howie and I had anticipated. Most restaurants are open, although many now hang curtains in the windows so that you cannot see in from the street. The thing is, there are a lot of people NOT fasting. If you are pregnant or menstruating, you cannot fast and then of course there is a pretty large Christian and Chinese population that is also eating regularly. The first week was the most serious, everyone in my office seemed to be fasting and even having water at your desk was a no-no. By this week, the usual afternoon snacks have re-appeared, water and coffee at the desk are fine, and there is just generally a lot more eating going on.

At about 6 PM when we hear that call to prayer in the office, there is suddenly chaos and scrambling for the pantry area. Everyone running to have tea and snacks that the office lady picks up about an hour before "buka puasa" - what we call break fast, they call open fast. In anycase, this is not your bagel, creamcheese and lox crowd. Above find the beverage (for lack of a better term) of choice described to me as "porridge with a jelly surprise" I was offered a taste, but I could not even take a spoonful from such a hungry woman's mouth. And, well quite honestly, not really my thing I think.

Just a day in the life...

6:30 PM “Masukan nomar telefon…” It is the voice of trying to make an international call from my office where you dial a code, get this message and then have to enter the telephone number you are dialing, then the pound sign and then, inevitably, still do not get connected to the person you are dialing. After hearing this message too many times I gave up, sent the woman I was supposed to interview an “I am sorry” email and headed to the gym. Already off my schedule since I was hoping to leave at 6…"jam karet" – rubber time – I am living like an Indonesian.

There were no taxis. I mean NONE. And I could see the busway from where I was standing and it was packed. Buses were only coming about once every 10 minutes and they were stuffed to the gills, only letting about 4 people on the bus at a time. No taxi, no bus….argh. So I decide to walk. It is about 30 minutes, meaning my schedule for the evening was going to be running late. It is now 7:15 PM. I reach in my bag to call Howie…hmmm…where is my phone?? Actually, this pocket feels light. There is usually a couple thousand Rp in here for the bus…Crap. Pick-pocketed. 10 months here and you think I would know better than to put anything in the front zipper pocket of my bag. Maybe 10 months has made me careless. Whatever the case, the phone was gone.

7:30 PM Back to the office for one last check for the phone. Maybe I left it on my desk? Nope. Not there. OK, I freak out for a minute and then realize I need a new phone and I have to keep my phone number and if I do not do this now, it is never going to happen. Off to the Ambassador where I bought the phone the first time. But now I am back to the same problem I had when I left the office. No taxi, tons of traffic in the direction of the Ambassador and the little mini buses I take, there are none to be seen. There is a huge crowd waiting to the minibus and when one comes – they seat 10 people uncomfortably – there is a mad scramble. I cannot fight my way on the first couple, but as I get more and more annoyed, elbow fly and there I am on the minibus.

7:45 PM I find the office for the phone company (Indosat) and by some miracle and after only about 16 pages of paperwork and no fee I have a new SIM card, with my same number and all I need is a phone. Luckily, there are about 100 cell phone dealers at the Ambassador. Right near the Indosat office, go figure. By 8:30 I have a new phone and the SIM card is working. All that is missing are the phone numbers of the few people I know, which in the grand scheme is not a big deal since they can still call me. Yay.

I run to the supermarket, pick up some fish since I had promised to cook dinner and after waiting in the “basket only” line for 30 minutes since, although they say basket only, they do not specify how many baskets you can have, I am ready to go. I am back on the minibus and almost home.

9:15 PM Home. Finally. I whip up some dinner – a damn nice meal of rice and fish, beet salad and zucchini – and we are eating by 10 PM and I have crazy conflicting emotions. On one hand, man this day sucked. Getting around is so irritating, nothing worked right, I was pick-pocketed!! But on the other, I did it. I did not let Jakarta get the best of me. Happy. Accomplished. Sleepy. Just another day I suppose...

Earthquake, Take II

Neither of us felt this one at all. I was on a bus coming home from work and Haviva was in a taxi. The city was a complete mess because it is the first night of Ramadan, so it was hard to tell if there was extra chaos from the earthquake or not. Apparently people did feel it here, but we had no idea until Haviva got a text message asking if she was ok.

The quake was centered off the coast of Bengkulu, which is where we went last month for Indendance Day. Sounds like they were hit pretty hard.

Just wanted to let you know that all was well here.